KTM instructions. They didn't fit exactly what I was seeing on my stator. I have a green ground wire on the LEFT side of the CDI coil. They show it on the RIGHT side with no green wire.
The big deviation begins here. I am having a hard time convincing myself that I need to spend $50 for a $10 part. I pulled a good sized bridge rectifier from my salvaged junk collection. This device has 4 diodes in it that convert 2 phase (or 1 phase) AC into DC. I cut and spliced this into the wire harness from the coil, so that after the connector it would be all DC. This came back to bit me just a bit later on.
Directly on the output of the rectifier, not attached to the rest of the system I was reading 28VDC. I hooked this 28V directly into the battery and the stock regulator. Now the stock regulator is keeping the entire system voltage stable at about 14VDC, even with two 55W headlights on. I'm a little bit worried about the stock regulator and my rectifier getting hot. Today I checked them after my commute and the regulator was cool, but the rectifier was warm. I might add a heat sink to it.
The part that bit me: I had previously installed a relay to switch everything except the auto choke and starter on and off. This relay coil was driven by a small diode + capacitor circuit so it could take AC directly from the stator. This would behave the same was as stock. Relay off when engine not running, relay on when engine running.
I did run into another problem. Somehow with all my re-wiring I left the auto-choke connected to battery 12V somewhere. The first night after I did this conversion my battery died. it took a bit of head scratching but disconnecting that auto-choke removed the drain and everything is good again. I just need to re-wire the choke into the relay side of the 12V. Or remove it and put in a manual choke.. which seems like a better option.
Next up: installing 1 of 2 HID projector bulbs! I could only afford 1 at the time ok?! I'll get the other next month.